If You Have 24 Hours in Singapore and All You Want to Do is Eat, Here’s Where You Go
Article by Jolyn Chua
Please enjoy the below article by Jolyn Chua (it’s making me so hungry), and if you like, the podcast episode below it about Singapore, with a guest from the cast of “Crazy Rich Asians.” -Katherine
If You Have 24 Hours in Singapore and All You Want to Do is Eat, Here’s Where You Go
By Jolyn Chua
Home to a melting pot of cultures, Singapore has a culinary landscape that is incredibly diverse. You can be wolfing down an Indian murtabak (savory stuffed pancake) one moment, crunching on a delightfully crispy Peranakan kueh pie tee (pastry stuffed with braised turnip and shrimp) the next, and then find yourself slurping up an icy cool Malay chendol (coconut milk with bright green pandan jelly) just across the street shortly thereafter.
In an island city jammed packed with Michelin-starred restaurants and Bib Gourmand-winning hawker stalls, that was awarded UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage for street food, narrowing down a list of must-tries can be contentious. But here are local favorites that will keep your gastronomical spirit burning bright for the 24 hours.
4 a.m.–8 a.m. : Char Kway Teow at Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee
Fried noodles before sunrise! Yes, a snaking queue forms outside the closed shutters at Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee starting at five in the morning. Char kway teow is a classic example of a wok-hei dish, where every strand of rice noodles gets lightly scorched on the sides of a heavy cast iron wok that’s several times hotter than what a normal kitchen stove can achieve. Soy sauce and oyster sauce are drizzled over the noodles, and a mix of cockles, fish cakes, Chinese sausages, and bean sprouts are casually tossed in over high heat. The result is a perfectly-charred, glistening plate of noodles that will always make you wish you ordered a bigger serving.
8 a.m.–noon: Kopi and Kaya Toast at Ya Kun Kaya Toast (Far East Square)
Older than the country itself, Ya Kun serves up one of the best traditional kopi (coffee made from robusta beans roasted with margarine) and kaya toast (a rich, creamy mix of coconut milk and eggs slathered over a thinly sliced buttered toast). Take a seat on a wooden stool at a round marble table alongside elderly folk and office warriors to enjoy a leisurely breakfast dished out in old-school porcelain plates and cups. Soft-boiled eggs are included in the set, and oftentimes you’ll see locals dipping their kaya toast in it.
Noon–4 p.m.: Nasi Padang at Hjh Maimunah Restaurant (Jalan Pisang)
Originally from West Sumatra, nasi padang has been a staple of the halal food scene in Singapore for the longest time. It’s easy to see why when you’re presented with the vast array of tantalizing dishes at Hjh Maimunah. Simply start ordering when dining solo (the servers will place your food on a single plate) or request for hidang (banquet style multiple small plates) when sharing and tuck into their popular beef rendang (chunky beef pieces slow cooked in aromatic spices and coconut milk), tahu telar (a crispy golden tower made from tofu and eggs paired with black shrimp paste sauce), and lemak siput seduk (escargot in coconut gravy) in a relaxed family-friendly setting.
4 p.m.–8 p.m.: Bak Kut Teh at Founder’s Bak Kut Teh
Pork ribs simmered till tender with bulbs of garlic lend this peppery broth sweet notes that make it addictively good. Bak Kut Teh can be fiery at times, but also “shiok,” which means pleasurable in Singlish. Rice, pickled vegetables, and you tiao (fried dough fritters) are the default condiments for this Hokkien dish best had on a rainy day.
8 p.m.–midnight: Chili Crab at the Roland Restaurant
You cannot leave this island nation without getting your fingers covered in the thick, spicy red gravy of Singapore’s most renowned chili crab dish. Succulent and meaty Sri Lankan crabs are wok-tossed with belacan (fermented shrimp paste), tomato puree, and various spices to create an umami sauce that you’ll surely wipe clean with your mantou (fried buns). Head straight into the eastern heartlands to sample this iconic dish at the restaurant founded by the chili crab creators themselves and named after their son, Roland.
Midnight–4 a.m.: Roti Prata at Julaiha Muslim Restaurant
If there’s one unanimous supper choice among picky Singaporeans, it must be roti prata. Fluffy, somewhat greasy, crispy on the outside but slightly chewy on the inside, prata (fried flatbread) definitely hits the spot after a night of drinking. Tear apart a warm prata kosong (plain) with your bare hands, dip it in the accompanying curry (generally a masala-based one) or sugar (usually for the younger at heart) before devouring each generous piece whole. Sip a hand-pulled, foaming hot teh halia (ginger milk tea) while you’re at it, and you might just start to understand why eating is our national pastime.
Food of Singapore with Kheng Hua Tan
More Food Media:
A response to that one guy on Twitter who made fun of people who like garlic naan.
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Very informative - and tempts the foodie reader to a Singapore visit, preferably soon. Just one comment : Murtabak (referred to in the first para) is not Indian. In fact, if you mention it to a Indian, they will look very confused. It's more of an Arab dish and possibly eaten in Malaysia and Indonesia as well.