Where Do We Think al Pastor Comes From?
Because there is some disagreement
The handsomest guy in L.A. took me to omakase this weekend. I had never experienced it before. It was so fancy and the fish was so pretty! A very fun time. The most memorable course might have been the first: just a little kettle of seafood broth. Ain’t that always the way. -Katherine
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Al Pastor Tacos: Middle Eastern in Origin, Global in Appeal
By Aimée Ayaka Yokota Lister
What do tacos al pastor and shawarma have in common? A lot, as it turns out. If you’ve ever noticed the uncanny resemblance between Mexican al pastor rotating on a spit and Arab shawarma’s characteristic conical shape, you’ve made an astute connection.
Though the exact historical link between these two street food staples is a source of controversy, one thing’s for certain: al pastor tacos are a Mexican interpretation of a much loved Middle Eastern delicacy.
From the 18th century onwards, there was a steady flow of immigration from the Middle East to Latin America, resulting in the largest Arab diaspora outside of the Middle East today. Among other things, this influx brought with it something of a culinary revolution, out of which tacos al pastor (or if you’re from the North, tacos de trompo) were born.
If you’ve never tasted one before, they’re essentially a classic taco with some unexpected flavor. The modern rendition includes marinated pork, a relish of pineapple, onion, cilantro and a squeeze of lemon - although you may be treated to a slightly different interpretation depending on the taquero.
Though tacos al pastor are seen as quintessentially Mexican, their other name, “tacos árabes” (Arab tacos), gives their true heritage away. But as it’s assimilated into the local repertoire, this treasured dish has evolved a fair bit.
Originally made with lamb, it was reworked with pork to better suit the local palate. The original vinegar marinade was replaced by chili and achiote, and the Arab pita for tortilla. And of course the addition of pineapple is also a classically Mexican flair. The upright spit and slow-turning cooking technique is still going strong.
Though the very Arab origins of tacos al pastor are not in dispute, the exact people who brought the dish to Mexico and when is a point of controversy.
Some would argue fervently that it was first generally introduced by Lebanese immigrants who arrived in Puebla in the ‘20s or ‘30s. Another theory credits Puebla’s la Taqueria Bagdad specifically for first sharing the recipe. One source names Iskender Efendi, a Turkish man, as the original pioneer.
The exact point at which the pineapple was first added is also a mystery, though some point to El Tizoncito, another of Mexico’s oldest taquerias, for this stroke of genius. It’s interesting to note that it has embraced this title: its slogan is ‘the creators of tacos al pastor’!
The 1960s is generally accepted as the era in which tacos al pastor found popular approval, as second-generation Middle-Eastern immigrants began to open their own businesses and share their food heritage more widely. Their success was probably fueled, in part, by the experimental and dynamic culinary boom that took place in Mexico City at that time.
Wherever their true origins lie and whomever it was that brought them to Mexico, tacos al pastor are an exquisite culinary fusion, so traditionally Arab, yet completely Mexican all at once.
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