Arthur Treacher’s Fish & Chips: Where England, Ohio, and Catholicism Meet

Report by Brittany Moseley

Enjoy the below article by Brittany Moseley! -Katherine

Photo: Arthur Treacher’s

Arthur Treacher’s Fish & Chips: Where England, Ohio, and Catholicism Meet

By Brittany Moseley

Ohio is the birthplace of a number of restaurant chains, from Wendy’s and Arby’s to Buffalo Wild Wings and White Castle (well, it’s headquartered here). But none have the cultish following of Arthur Treacher’s Fish & Chips.

Much of the allure around Arthur Treacher’s is that today, only two standalone locations remain. The restaurant was founded in Columbus, Ohio, in 1969. (Dave Thomas was one of the original investors, but would soon leave to start Wendy’s.) It was named after the British character actor who also served as the restaurant’s spokesperson. At its heyday in the 1970s, there were more than 800 Arthur Treacher’s nationwide. 

Today, some Nathan’s Famous locations carry select Arthur Treacher’s menu items. There was even talk of Nathan’s creating Arthur Treacher’s ghost kitchens. But to get the complete Arthur Treacher’s experience, one must head to northeast Ohio.

Ben Vittoria began working for Arthur Treacher’s in 1977 as a college grad. He expected to work there for six months while he saved money for grad school. “Six months turned out to be over 40 years,” he says.

Vittoria moved up quickly, working in regional and corporate positions. In 1988, already settled with his family in Ohio, he decided to become a franchisee. Vittoria’s company would go on to operate 17 Arthur Treacher’s. 

Today, his sole remaining store is located in Cuyahoga Falls, a suburb of Akron. The location celebrated 50 years last June. 

A host of factors contributed to the demise of Arthur Treacher’s: a change in ownership, poor management, the Cod Wars. And while the downfall of the chain makes for interesting reading, what’s most striking about Arthur Treacher’s is how novel it was when it started. 

Photo: Yelp

“Arthur Treacher's basically introduced a British fish and chips meal concept that could be served in a fast food environment, and brought a meal that could not be made at home,” Vittoria says.

“They really capitalized on the fact that in the Midwest, you have places … that have a large Catholic population that during the period of Lent was seeking a way to eat fish and chips for their religious needs, and [wanted to eat] something that was affordable.”

Vittoria’s Arthur Treacher’s is just like you (or your parents) remember it. You can spot its giant yellow sign a block away. Pictures of the real Arthur Treacher adorn its walls. An original fish & chips combo will cost you $10.49. The fries are thick cut and nicely salted, and the fish is hot and crisp. It comes with two hushpuppies, but you’ll want to order more. And don’t forget a Lemon or Apple Luv (a fried hand pie) for dessert. 

For a short period, the Cuyahoga Falls store was the last Arthur Treacher’s. In 2021, Vittoria closed his second store in Garfield Heights, a Cleveland suburb. The location was purchased by George Simon, a real estate developer. Simon didn’t have immediate plans for the property, but after visiting the Cuyahoga Falls Arthur Treacher’s, Vittoria says Simon was impressed by the product and the customer base. Simon asked Vittoria if he could reopen the Garfield Heights store. 

“It reopened on February 23, and he's doing fantastic,” Vittoria says. “He's very excited. He plans to do more. He has my blessing and anything I can do to help him in the future.”

Speaking of the future, Vittoria, who recently turned 68, is cagey when asked if he plans to retire. 

“You're asking the million dollar question,” he says with a laugh. “As long as my health remains where I can operate and enjoy, I'll keep on, at least for the next couple of years. And I'm very passionate, so I don't want to turn things over to anyone.”

---

More Food Media:

• ⬆️ Agree?

• Max Falkowitz writes about trees now, but he is still America’s foremost ice cream expert. He kindly corrected my failing peanut butter ice cream recipe recently: use less cream, the PB is fatty enough! Here’s one of his recipes.

• What are your favorite kitchen implements?

• Pakistan’s favorite sandwich is an East Coast classic.

If you liked the newsletter today, please forward it to someone who’d enjoy it, and tap the heart icon above or below, which will help me reach more readers. I appreciate your help, y’all!

Please note: Smart Mouth is not accepting pitches at this time.

This newsletter is edited by Katherine Spiers, host of the podcast Smart Mouth.

A TableCakes Production.