French Food's Soul
And some time in Pondicherry
When you read this I’ll be on my way to India. Have you been to Pondicherry? Any suggestions for my time there? (Related to the article below, Pondicherry was a French colony and has a fair number of French restaurants. But I want to try southern Indian food, since it’s hard to come by in L.A.) -Katherine
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French Food’s Soul
By Daniel Waldman
Most people in the culinary world consider Lyon to be the gastronomic capital of France. But if Lyon is the heart of French cuisine, Brittany surely is its soul. And while Breton foods often don’t dazzle the way the more famous fine French dining can, a number of national delicacies come from this region.
With over 600 miles of coastline, Brittany has plenty of fresh seafood and shellfish. It’s also fairly rural, responsible for 15% of France’s food production. Milk is a major export of the region, and Brittany is famous for its butter. The cuisine is homey and hearty, the type of food that makes you nostalgic for a French grandma you never had.
If you want to take a trip off the beaten path and visit Brittany, here are five foods you really must try.
Galettes
Crepes are ubiquitous in France, and it’s sometimes forgotten that they originated in Brittany. A savory crepe made with blé noir (black wheat), a type of buckwheat, galettes are delicious with just plain salted butter for a snack. Hit up any of the thousands of creperies you’ll find in the region, and you’ll be able to get them filled with tasty delights like cheese, ham, sauteed leeks, and other local produce.
Oysters
When in Brittany, oysters should be top of mind. Bretons have been harvesting them for hundreds, if not thousands, of years; UNESCO even added oysters from Cancale (on Brittany’s northern shore) to their List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019.
You can find fresh oysters in every farmers’ market in the region, but they’re mostly available during the “r” months: September through April. Oysters are sold by numbered sizes, with 000 being the largest and 6 being the smallest. French oyster aficionados will tell you to look for size 3, which has a nice balance of meatiness, saltiness, and light sweetness.
Langoustines
If you want to really treat yourself, then langoustines are the way to go. A sort of mini-lobster, langoustines are a summertime staple of the region. Delicate and satisfying, these crustaceans are usually boiled and served with homemade mayonnaise for dipping.
Far Breton
Fans of flan will enjoy Far Breton. This custardy tart can be served plain or with prunes and/or raisins. While they’re sweet, they’re not over the top, and therefore make a filling afternoon snack, or goûter.
Kouign-Amann (pronounced kewn-ya-man)
The kouign-amann is, for those with a sweet tooth, the best thing about Breton food. Thin sheets of laminated dough are doused in butter and sugar, which then caramelize and crisp up the outside while remaining soft and doughy inside. They’re sweet and sticky all over.
Related: The Galette Supreme
Different Jews, different ingredients.
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