The Perfect Bread Is in Portugal
And Dale Talde has some things to say to you
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Bolo do Caco, Portugal’s Perfect Bread
For centuries, Madeira has been known for its wine. It was even drunk during the signing of the Declaration of Independence, but few Americans know that Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago that's closer to Morocco than it is to mainland Portugal. In addition to traditionally-harvested, foot-stomped wine, Madeira is also known for phenomenal bread in general, and bolo do caco in particular.
Bolo do caco, which some menus simply refer to as “traditional bread,” is a bread or cake (bolo) that was originally baked on a hot stone (caco). Nowadays, few bakeries use hot stones, but this sweet potato bread resembling an oversized English muffin remains a staple in Madeiran bakeries.
On day one of a 10-day trip to Madeira, I had lunch at Fajã dos Padres, a seaside farm, villa, and restaurant occupying land that, for generations until they were expelled in 1759, was owned by the Jesuits. After the Portuguese state took over (then sold) the land, it was again sold and resold until the current owners’ grandfather purchased it in 1921.
Fajã dos Padres is known for its octopus and limpets (aquatic snails that look and taste like mussels) but I’m vegetarian so I immediately attacked the bread basket. My Portuguese dining companion informed me locals know to go for the bottom slices, which are especially buttery. They were warm, slightly toasted, chewy, drenched in garlic butter, garnished with minced parsley, and, quite possibly, the best thing I’d eaten in my entire life.
Over the next few days, I would eat a dozen bolos, hoping to replicate the exact moment on the farm. I couldn’t.
I called the restaurant to find out what made their bread unique and learned that, while bolo do caco is a staple in just about every (non-fancy) restaurant, most, including Fajã dos Padres, actually purchase it from bakeries. The bread is typically frozen, pulled out to defrost the night before, then toasted and smeared with butter and raw garlic before serving.
Catarina Vilhena, one of the owners of the family-run restaurant, was kind enough to call the bakery, Ilhopan, and it sent me a list of other restaurants it supplies with bread. My search for the perfect Portuguese bread continued - and I did find that I liked the Ilhopan-baked bread the best - but nothing compared to what I had the first day.
Next time I visit Madeira (and there will definitely be a next time), I plan to stay in one of the waterfront villas at Fajã dos Padres so I can have bolo do cacodelivered directly to my room for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Obrigada. 🇵🇹
Regarding Reviews with Dale Talde
“You don’t like my vaccine policy. OK, go fuck yourself.”
How chef and TV star Dale Talde changed his restaurant’s pay structure (I hadn’t heard of this before) and why he doesn’t do take-out. And who goes out for lunch on Valentine’s Day.
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